Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Day 34 - A Full Day in Hong Kong

I have come to realize what a luxury it is to be able to brush your teeth with the water from the tap. Of course, there was no issue with the water in Australia (as a matter of fact, the tank water at the Finn household was so good - you know how you almost crave it - it was like that), but in the other places we have visited, up until now, we had to be careful. I've come home with a parasite from the water before, and that is not fun. Last night, the toothbrush got an extra rinse with clean Hong Kong tap water.

It felt a little more relaxed today as the tour we have booked is scheduled to start at 9:30 AM. There was no rushing to get to the lobby. In fact, we slept in a little in what we think is a California King bed. Plenty of real estate there for sure. After publishing the last three blogs last night, I think I made it to bed at midnight, local time, and Laureen was waking me up at about 7:30 AM. Great nights rest in a comfortable bed. We got up, had showers and then headed off to Cafe M for breakfast. On the way down, room 1044 was being made up and was empty - but we could see it had a view of Victoria harbour. We asked the maid if we could take a photo and she said yes.


We were seated in the IHG members area as we have an IHG number. Not sure what trip we registered, but we have seen a bit of benefit from it before, so it was noice to have. Large buffet breakfast at this hotel, so plenty of options to choose from. There was an Asian man sitting about 5 tables over from us having what looked like a meeting with his phone propped up against the flowers on the table and the speakerphone on full. Seems like it's culturally acceptable here to do it this way.

Upon finishing our breakfast, we made our way to the lobby as we wanted to register a credit card with the front desk so that we can charge meals to the room. We also wanted to change some money which our hotel offers. It's not as a good of a rate as what you can get at the money exchange places, but at least we have SOME local currency. I also enquired about moving to room 1044, but the front desk said that it was an additional charge per day to have that view. We opted to stay where we were.

Laureen had looked over her shoulder and thought maybe she had seen someone who may be our guide, so she went over while I changed the money. She introduced herself and then made a quick trip to the loo before we left. I walked over and introduced myself to Randy, our guide for the next couple of days. Randy has been a guide since the late 1970's. As it turns out, he is nearly 70 years old. It's cool to have someone with so much history and background as the person with you. Laureen walked up and we made our way outside to meet Stanley and our Mercedes Benz transportation for the day. 

As we began to drive Randy gave us a bit of information about the area's that Hong Kong is divided into. Hong Kong is made up of three main regions: Kowloon, the New Territories, and Hong Kong Island—each with its own character and charm. He described a little about the city's unique housing situation. Interestingly, around 47% of the population lives in government housing, where families of up to eight people may share units as small as 700 square feet. The demand is high, with an average waiting time of six years. Rent is heavily subsidized, typically ranging from $170 to $800 Canadian dollars per month, depending on income and assets, which are checked as part of government eligibility requirements. For those aiming to eventually own their home, there's a “rent-to-buy” scheme where residents can purchase their units after renting, with around 10% of housing falling under this program. On the other end of the spectrum, private apartment prices can be astronomical—especially in areas like Ap Lei Chau (nicknamed “duck tongue” for its shape), where units sell for up to $3000 USD per square foot!

Hong Kong is a city rich in culture and complexity. Around 97% of the population speaks Cantonese, which reflects the region’s strong local identity. Although now part of China, Hong Kong has a unique “one country, two systems” arrangement that began in 1997. This allows it to maintain its own currency, flag, passport, and legal system—separate from mainland China. Economically, Hong Kong has shifted from a manufacturing hub to a major global shipping and financial centre. As a result, you’re more likely to see products labeled "Made in China" or "Made in Vietnam" due to lower labor costs there, while "Made in Hong Kong" has become less common. Another fascinating fact is how much the landscape has changed—Victoria Harbour, once significantly larger, is now about 40% smaller due to ongoing land reclamation projects that have reshaped the shoreline since 1842.

Our first stop was the Aberdeen Channel. The Aberdeen area of Hong Kong has a fascinating history shaped by industry, culture, and the sea. In the early 1960s, many factories in Aberdeen relocated to Southeast Asia in search of lower production costs, which led to a shift in the local economy. The Aberdeen Channel itself, once crowded with boat dwellers, is known for providing some natural typhoon protection due to its sheltered location. Historically, the area was home to the Tanka and Hotlo communities—considered lower class—who lived on houseboats. However, between 1969 and 1970, many of these residents were relocated into government housing due to the poor and smelly conditions of the water in the channel. Traditional wooden boats called “San Pan,” which means “three wood,” were commonly used as shuttle boats and even served as floating homes for some families. One of Aberdeen’s iconic attractions, the floating restaurant Taipan, is currently closed, but there are plans to reopen it in 2027 in an effort to revive tourism in the area.



The boat in the foreground is an example of a 'San Pan'

Repulse Bay is one of Hong Kong’s most popular and picturesque beaches, but it has a surprisingly dramatic history. The name “Repulse Bay” dates back to the days when pirates roamed the area—British forces helped drive them out, or “repulse” them, giving the bay its name. Despite the fierce origin, Repulse Bay has become a major tourist hotspot, once attracting between 20,000 to 25,000 visitors per day. However, the name didn’t sit well with many locals, who preferred to call it “Shallow Water Bay” due to its calm, gentle waters. With such massive crowds flocking to the beach, it also earned a humorous local nickname—“Excuse Me Beach”—because people constantly had to squeeze past one another. I grabbed a little bit of sand from this beach.




Right next to Repulse Bay Beach is the vibrant and colourful Tin Hau Temple, a fascinating place that blends elements of both Buddhist and Taoist traditions. While about a billion people globally practice Buddhism and Taoism, Hong Kong is also home to around 480,000 Catholics and 650,000 Christians, reflecting its diverse spiritual landscape. The temple is dedicated to several important deities, including Tin Hau, the ocean goddess, who is worshipped for providing safe journeys—especially important in a city so connected to the sea. Another key figure is Kwun Yam (also spelled Guanyin), a beloved Buddhist and Taoist goddess known for her compassion and ability to listen to those in need, helping to save and guide them.

Among the many statues, you’ll also find the god of fortune. Visitors often participate in a symbolic ritual where they rub coins over the statue’s money pot and belt, then return the coins to their pockets—representing a transfer of wealth and blessings from the god to themselves. Curt took out the money we changed today and rubbed it on the statue. It likely won't help once Laureen get's to the market. 


One of the most fun and unique parts of the temple is the god of matchmaking. According to local tradition, if you’re single, you can offer a prayer here—or, as I joked, simply hang around and see if a cute one shows up to pray! 😉

Another charming feature of the site is the small, ornate bridge near the water called the Bridge of Longevity. It’s said that walking across this bridge adds three days to your life. Naturally, we made sure to walk over it more than once—just to be safe.



Next we made our way to Stanley Market where we spent some time wandering through the stalls —an iconic spot on the south side of Hong Kong Island that's long been a favourite among expats and tourists alike. Back in the day, this place was known for something a bit cheeky: they'd take the brand labels off slightly defective items from big-name clothing companies and sell them at a discount. It gave the market a bit of a treasure-hunt vibe. Historically, expats also came here for textiles and tailoring, since finding the right clothing sizes in local stores used to be a challenge. While that’s less of an issue nowadays, some of those tailor shops are still around, a reminder of how Stanley Market adapted to meet the needs of the international crowd that’s always been drawn to this part of Hong Kong. 

Laureen saw a lady who was doing a calligraphy of Hong Kong letters so she had one made.  Randy, our guide, noted that China uses a more modern script while Hong Kong uses a more ancient script. 


Remember that money I rubbed on the god of fortune - well that got spent in one go. I guess I rubbed it the wrong way and it became someone else's fortune. 

Our next stop was the Victoria Peak - sitting at around 1,300 feet above sea level, it’s the highest point on Hong Kong Island and has been a draw for well over a century. Back in 1888, they built a cable car system to get people up and down, which was a pretty big deal at the time. Before that, expats were literally carried up the hill in sedan chairs, then later in rickshaws—talk about door-to-door service. Randy bought us two Egg Yolk Tarts from a famous store that he noted his "leader" comes to. They were yummy!


The view from this height was amazing. The 'haze' you see is actually dust from storms in China. It's expected to clear in the next day or so. Also, if you look close, you'll see dragonflies in the shot. There were lots of them flying around.



We took the Peak Tram, the original funicular railway that's been running since the late 1800s. It’s a steep, gravity-defying ride with views to match. We rode it down and met our driver, Stanley, at the bottom... although between us and the tram, I think he was the one doing the real uphill battle.



The buildings all look like they are leaning.

From the bottom of the funicular, Stanley drove us to the ferry terminal where we rode the ferry across Victoria Harbour. 

Me, Laureen and our knowledgeable guide, Randy


When we arrived at the other side, Stanley was there to pick us up - but I think we actually beat him there. The ferry was faster than the tunnel. From there they drove us back to the hotel where the tour started this morning and we said goodbye to Stanley. We'll see Randy tomorrow with a new driver. 

We made our way up to our room and spent a little time relaxing and deciding what we would do for the evening. I started writing the blog, so that in the evening it would not take as long. It's kinda nice not to have a tour that lasts from dawn to dusk. We decided to get out and about, change a little more money (but I'm not rubbing it on that statue again), and then walk around a little bit in the general direction of where we would eat dinner.  Randy had suggested a restaurant that had the best Cantonese cuisine in Hong Kong - Lei Garden

In the mall we walked through we saw plenty of little stores selling all kinds of items. There was lots of jade, which was insanely expensive (well, at least I thought it was). While we were walking around, a man asked me about custom shirts, and we made our way into his store. I found some fabrics that I liked and he gave me a deal on 6 custom made Egyptian cotton shirts. He measured me all up, and said they would be ready on Thursday after 3:00 PM. What's funny is he mentioned that he want to school with the guy I bought my shirts from in Canada, Maxwell Tailors and even indicated that sometimes his shop makes some of the stuff for Maxwell. My suitcase just got heavier. I'm going to have to discard some more items. 

From there we made our way to Lei Gardens. They are closed from 3:00 PM to 6:00 PM and we arrived about 5:50. As we sat in the waiting area, you could see The MICHELIN Guide awards they had won. We clearly were in the right place. We ordered three plates to share: a Shrimp, BBQ Pork and Beef one. 




We also ordered a dessert with mango, pineapple and tapioca beads in a mango ice cream. It was really good. So good in fact, we ate it before thinking about taking a photo. With the sparkling water and green tea, we were full. We paid for the meal and then made our way to the next intended destination, a spot to watch the Symphony of Lights, a laser light show, over Victoria Harbour. 

Before heading out, we made a quick trip to the restroom. I just had to take a picture of the sign they had on the wall. I nearly missed because I was laughing so hard.


The show starts at 8:00 PM and Randy told us where to go to get a good view. We showed up at about 7:30 PM and there were already tour buses off-loading people coming to the harbour for this event. We found a place to sit, and took a few pics before and during the production.



If you look close on this one, you can see the laser lights

From there we went into the K11 tower looking for gelato for “someone”. As we wandered in the mall, you could tell it was a ritzy place. Every store had guards. Cartier, YSL, they all were here. When we finally found the elusive gelato place and - well - lets just say it would have been cheaper to buy a flight to Cairns and buy gelato from one of the three places we tried it there. And, the gelato in Cairns was much better tasting. Sigh. 


We made our way out of the same door we came into the place, and just across the way I noticed that there was an Omega store.  I made a solo trip in there to check out the time pieces. I am, after all, an owner of an Omega - so I am part of the club. Stunning watches - but I came out empty handed. Nearly tried on a white face Seamaster though.


Back to the hotel to complete the blog and get to bed. Tomorrow is another tour with Randy where one of the sites we are going to is the Big Buddha. I'll need to be rested for the 268 steps to the top.

Curt and Laureen in Hong Kong

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